The gear we use to keep things Scramblin'
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2003 Ford Excursion
- 7.3L Powerstroke
- Banks Stinger-Plus kit (oh yeah, baby!)
- Banks 6-gun Tuner
- This thing is the haulin'est tow rig known to man! 20+MPG on the highway,
even more if I can find a semi to draft behind.
- So I noticed that the intake system begins behind the grille, but it's
blocked from any direct air coming from the front of the truck. I
guess inbound air is supposed to come in around the tow hook then go up a
few feet then make the turn into the tube which leads past the battery into
the air box. So I changed it. The Ford Superduty grille has a
side opening on either side of the main radiator opening.
- You'd think that the driver's side one would connect to the air
intake. Nope. Solid plastic there, and the air that goes in that
hole gets routed behind the headlight ... I guess they get hot or
something? I'd rather have a fresh stream of air into the
intake. If my left headlight pops before the right one, there's a 50%
chance I contributed by robbing of it's cooling airstream <wink>
- So here's what I did: I peeled back the rubber cover on top, you'll
see the intake where it stops. There a solid piece to the centerline
and one to the outside. If you cut through the one facing center,
you'll bleed off pressure in front of the radiator which will reduce cooling
ability. Don't want to do that. I used a rotozip to cut through
the fiberglass between the supports, making the hole as big as I
could. It ended up being about the same size as the intake inlet,
third picture. You can see how the air would normally follow to the
outer edge behind the headlight. Then I made a simple dam to force the
air to the center, through the hole. Now the air coming through that
area makes a 90 degree turn through the new hole, then another 90 into the
intake and goes about 3' into the airbox. I figure bugs won't make the
first 90, and water won't make the next one. Even if it does, it won't
carry all the way through the tube, into the airbox and up into the
filter. But I'll verify that as soon as I get into a torrential
- Another thing I might do is block the bottom of that area so the air can't
escape out that way, effectively relieving the air pressure on the
intake. More pressure is better, of course. That's for next time
I think, no time for that right now.
- Results: I did this mod the same time I replaced my Cam Position Sensor,
so I'm not 100% sure what I'm seeing is this mod. Bottom line is that
with these two changes my city mileage (according to the computer, I haven't
filled the tank yet) is up .5 MPG, and my short highway run (about 3 miles
each way) brings the average up another .1 MPG on the computer, then it's
back down on the city leg of the trip. I'm about to make a long trip
so we'll see how this all plays out. If I really wanted to verify this
mod, I'd block the inlet for 1/2 the trip, but I don't care that much.
I'm sure it will help enough that the mileage will bear it out
- I drove it to Michigan and back with no noticeable difference in mileage.
But that could be due to the restrictive paper filter.
- I also just changed the ICP sensor and found that my wiring harness for
the left injector bank was chafing on a ground bolt. Luckily I found
it before it shorted something out!
- I just got around to putting a block at the bottom of that area to force
the air into the intake. Next step is to put a pressure/vacuum gauge
tap in there and see if I'm developing any differential at highway speeds.
- I've also installed a air heater eliminator from black cloud diesel
- Most recent mod: Superlift manual hubs. That's got to be the easiest
mod I've done to a 4x4 in years!
car Jeep trailer
- beavertail w/ ramps, dual axle, surge brakes, cedar deck
- roller fairlead on front to facilitate winching up broken vehicles (not my
Jeep, of course)
- Jeep Wagoneer wheels slightly modified to fit the Chevy 6-bolt hubs
- rewired, LED taillights
and marker lights from www.partssystems.com
- From Harrison R&D
- Palm VII and HP laptop for code reading/diagnostics out of the Powerstroke
- Unfortunately it doesn't work when the Banks Ottomind installed.
Hobart 175 MIG Welder
- The best home MIG welder I've ever used
- Capable of welding 1/4" plate to rusted sheet metal without burning
- 175 is the bottom end of the 220v series
- One of these days I'm going to start doing aluminum, then look out baby!
Craftsman tools (always)
- Things break - they replace it for free
- "Frankenstein IV" - home built :P
- Intel Dual Core processor
- 4GB PC4200 Ram
- Gigabyte 7-VAXP
- SATA hard drive
- Cable modem
- D-Link router (linksys sucks)
- Epson printer (on wireless LAN)
- Epson 4800x2400 scanner
- Frontpage 2003
- Windows Vista
- various jpg/picture editing software
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or Daimler-Chrysler. ©1999 OffRoad Vehicle Outfitters